Heel and method of making the same



June 7, 1932. V KNQWLTQN 1,861,662

HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 25. 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Fig.7.,

'June 7, 1932. N, KNQWLTQN 1,861,662

HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 25, 1930 2 SheetsSheet 2 WMM Patented June 7, 1932.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE NORWOOD H. KNOWLTON, OF ROCIPORT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Application filed July 25,

This invention relates to methods of making heels and methods of manufacturing.

shoes and to improvements in heels and shoes as articles of manufacture.

The invention is illustrated with special reference to heels of the type disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,704,204, granted March 5, 1929, upon application of W. H. Nutt, such heels being provided with two grooves which extend heightwise of the heel one along each lateral margin of the heel breast and the grooves being of a character adapted to receive and retain in place inturned lateral margins of coverings for the side and breast surfaces of the heel. The Louis heel herein shown is also characterized by having a breast face which is transversely convex at the lip of the heel so that the portions of the breast surface immediately adj acent to the inner sides of the breast grooves project forwardly beyond theportions of the heel breast at the outer sides of the grooves.

The present invention in one aspect resides in an improved method of making heels of the type above referred to which comprises relieving or chamfering the breast surfaces of a heel throughout restricted areas immediately adjacent to the inner side walls of the breast grooves at the upper portions only of the heel breast to permit countersinking of the margins of a covering for the breast of a heel at the relieved or chamfered portions of the breast surface. The practice of the method is particularly useful to insure that the lateral margins of the heel breast covering of heels having transversely convex breast surfaces shall not project beyond the lateral edge portions of the heel breast in such a way as to be visible when the heel is viewed from the side. This method may also be practiced advantageously in cases where it is desired to have more or less projection of the breast covering margins beyond the lateral edges of the heel breast, to insure that such projection shall be uniform throughout the height of the heel. As exemplified herein, the breast surface may also be relieved or chamfered along the inner sides of the grooves throughout the height of the heel breast to provide for countersinking of the 1930. Serial N0. 470,664.

from

top to bottom of the heel wherever suc tice may be considered desirable.

In covering a heel having its breast grooved and chamferedas above described, a covering is applied to the rear and sides of the heel and the lateral margins of the cover may be laid over the lateral edges of the heel breast and tucked into the breast grooves in the manner described in Letters Patent No. 1,704,204, above referred to. A covering is also applied to the heel breast .and, in accordance with the present invention, portions of the lateral margins of the breast covering are laid upon or countersunk at the relieved portions of the breast surface. As shown, the outermost portions of the lateral margins of the breast covering may be tucked into the breast grooves beside the tucked-in margins of the side cover, as described in said Letters Patent or, in accordance with another aspect of this invention, the lateral margins of the breast covering may be tucked into the breast grooves below the lipped portion of the heel breast but arranged at the breast lip with their edges abutting the portions of the side cover margins which turn inwardly over the outer edges of the breast grooves. Thus, the edges of the breast covering, where they are not tucked into the breast grooves, are not exposed to view but are covered and protected by the inturned margins of the side covering or, if no side covering is employed, by the outer side walls of the breast grooves. The heel breast may be covered before attachment of the heel to a shoe or the breast covering may consist of a flap formed integral with the sole of a shoe to which the heel is to be attached. In the latter case of course, the heel breast will remain uncovered until after attachment of the heel to a shoe, and invention is also to be recognized as residing in an improved method of making shoes which comprises the countersinking, at the relieved or chamfered portions of the heel breast surface, of marginal portions of a breast flap ffirmed as an integral part of the sole of the s 0e.

Considered in another aspect, the invention consists in a heel illustrated as having marginal breast grooves adapted to receive andllappears after the breast flap has been laid retain in place inturned marginal portions of one or more heel cover members and having portions of its breast surface relieved throughout a restricted area immediately adjacent to the inner side wall of said groove to permit countersinking of a portion of a heel cover member thereon. The invention consists also in improvements in covered heels the coverings of which have been applied in accordance with one or more of the hereinbefore described method aspects of the invention.

In still another aspect, invention may be recognized as residing in a shoe illustrated as having attached thereto a heel grooved and chamfered as above described, the breast of the heel being covered by a fiap formed integral with the sole of the shoe.

Other aspects and features of the invention will be hereinafter described and claimed.

In the drawings,

Figs. 1 and 2 are perspective views of Louis heels embodying features of the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line III-III of Fig. 1; v

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the same plane as Fig. 3, showing side and breast coverings of substantially the same thickness;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing a thicker breast covering;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line VIVI of Fig. 1, showing the heel as it appears before the inner side walls of the breast grooves are chamfered;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but showing the heel at it appears after the chamfering operation has been performed;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken along the line VIII-VIII of Fig. 1;

Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 7 but showingdthe heel as it appears after being covere Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 8 but showing the covering applied to the heel;

Fig. 11 is a section taken in the same plane as Fig. 10 but showing a modified arrangement of the lateral margins of the breast covering;

Fig. 12 is a detail cross-sectional view on an enlarged scale, the section being taken on a plane extending through the heel breast lip;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 12 but showing a modified arrangement of the margin of the breast covering;

Fig. 14 is a bottom plan view of a shoe having attached thereto a heel such as that shown in 1, showing a breast flap split from the sole and ready to be applied to the breast of the heel;

Fig. 15 is a side elevational view of the portion of the shoe shown in Fig. 14 as it against the heel breast;

Fig. 16 is a view, in vertical section, of the heel shown in Figs. 1 and 2 as it appears when a breast covering has been applied thereto prior to the attachment of the heel to a shoe;

Fig. 17 is a perspective view of an uncovered heel embodying a modification of the present invention; and

Fig. 18 is a cross-sectional view of theheel of Fig. 17 showing that heel as it appears after 1t has been covered.

Referring to the drawings, there is shown in Figs. 1 and 2 a wooden Louis heel having the usual attaching and top-lift-receiving faces 19 and 20, respectively, and the usual curved surface 21 at the rear and sides of the heel. As is customary in Louis heels the breast 22 of the heel is shaped to provide a forwardly projecting lip 24 at the upper portion of the heel breast, i. e., the portion adjacent to the attaching face of the heel, the under side of this lip being transversely convex, as indicated at 26 in Figs. 5 to 9, inclusive. As herein shown, the portion of the heel breast below the lip has substantially no transverse convexity. The heel is further provided with cover-receiving grooves 28 which extend, one along each lateral margin of the heel breast, and are substantially parallel to the respective lateral breast edges 29 of the heel.

Throughout the lower portion of the heel, i. e., the portion adjacent to the top-lift-receiving face 20 where there is no substantial transverse convexity of the breast surface, the inner side walls of the grooves 28 are substantially the same .height as the outer. side walls of these grooves, or, in other words, the inner edges of the grooves do not project beyond the outer edges thereof. In the upper or lipped portion of the heel breast, however, on account of the decided transverse convexity of the breast face in this part of the heel, the width or height of the inner side walls of the grooves is considerably greater than that of the outer side walls, the inner edges of the grooves projecting forwardly a substantial amount beyond the outer edges of the grooves. Consequently, if the heel should be covered while in this condition the lateral margins of the breast covering which overlie the inner edges of the breast grooves would project forwardly beyond the portions of the side covering which overlie the outer edges of the breast grooves. If the breast covering is of substantially the same thickness as the side covering,as indicated in Fig. 4, the lateral margins of the breast covering at the lipped portion of the heel would project a substantial amount beyond the corresponding marginal portions of the side covering at the lateral edges of the heel breast, but

there would be no such projection of the breast covering margins in the region belowthe lipped portion of the heel. I ,however, the breast covering is substantially thicker 5 than the side covering, as indicated in Fig. 5, the breast covering margins which overlie the. inner edges of the breast grooves would project forwardly beyond the lateral edges of the heel breast throughout the height of the latter, the amount of projection of the breast cover margins, however, being greater at the lipped portion than at the lower por tion of the heel breast.

In order that the lateral margins of the 5 breast covering shall not project forwardly beyond the lateral margins of the side covering, or shall project uniformly from the top to the bottom of the heel beyond the side cover margins, the material adjacent to the inner side walls of the breast grooves of the illustrated heel has been chamfered, as indicated at in Figs. 1, 7 and 8, along the upper or lipped portion of the heel breast, where the heel breast is transversely convex, to relieve the breast surface and reduce the height of the inner side walls of the grooves in those regions to substantially the height of the outer side walls and thus to enable marginal portions of a breast covering to be counter- 9 sunk at the relieved portions of the breast. As shown in Fig. 1, the relieved portions of the breast surface are in the form of chamfered or beveled faces 30. lhese faces 30 increase gradually in width from points in the 5 lower portion ofthe heel breast lip to the up per forward edge of the lip. As shown in Figs. 7 and 8, the degree of bevel is such as to reduce the height of the inner side walls of the breast grooves only suficiently to make them substantially equal in height to the outer walls of the grooves, or, in other words, so as to insure that the inner side walls of the grooves shall not project forwardly beyond the outer side walls thereof. llhe chamfer- 5 ing of a heel breast in this manner insures that after side and breast coverings of sub stantially the same thickness have been applied to the heel, the lateral margins of the breast covering which overlie the chamfered ortions of the heel breast shall not project forwardly beyond the adjacent inturned margins of the side covering regardless of any transverse convexity of the heel breast. If, however, the breast covering is substantially thicker than the side covering the chamfering of the heel breast may be effected in such a manner as to insure that, while the lateral margins of the breast covering project more or less beyond the inturned margins of the side covering, nevertheless the amount of projection of the breast cover margins will be a desired uniform amount throughout the full height of the heel breast. In case it is desired to employ heel breast coverings which are substantially thicker than the side covering and at the same time to insure that the lateral margins of the breast covering shall not project forwardly beyond the corresponding margins of the side covering, the degree of bevel of the chamfered face on the heel breast may be made such as to make the height of the inner walls of the breast grooves less than that of the outer Walls of the grooves, such-a construction being shown, for example, in Fig. 11. If desired, also, the chamfering of the breast surface adjacent to the inner side walls of the grooves may be continued from the top to the bottom of the heel breast, as shown at 32 in Figs. 17 and 18, such a construction being advantageous where it is desired to lay the breast covering with its trimmed lateral edges, or portions of them, abutting the inturned margins of the side covering instead g f bejigg tucked into the groove, as shown in heel having its breast chamfered as above described may be covered in the usual manner by means of a side covering 36 and a breast covering, such as the sole flap 7 shown in Fig. 15, or the separate covering 38 shown in Fig. 16. The side covering 36 is wrapped around the rear and sides of the heel and its lateral margins laid over the lateral breast corners and tucked into the breast rooves, while the breast covering is laid against the surface of the heel breast, including the chamfered portions thereof, and its lateral margins may be tucked into the breast grooves beside the margins of the side covering, as in Fig. 12, or they may be arranged with their edges abutting the inturned side cover margins as shown in Fig. 13.

The breast covering will ordinarily comprise a sole-flap which is split from the sole of the shoe to which the heel is to be applied, as indicated in Fig. 14, wherein a heel H is shown as being attached to a shoe S having a sole 8 and a breast covering flap f split from but integral with the sole .3. If the breast covering flap f is of substantially the same thickness as the side covering 36 the lateral margins of the breast covering will not pr0- ject forwardly beyond the corresponding portions of the side covering but will be in line with the latter when the heel is viewed from the side, not only in that portion of the breast below the lip where the breast has no substantial transverse convexity, but also throughout the height of the lipped portion of the heel breast where the breast surface is more or less decidedly convex crosswise of the heel. It will be apparent that the breast cover margins do not project beyond the side cover margins at the upper or lipped portion of the heel breast because of the fact that the edges of the inner side walls of the grooves have been chamfered and thus reduced in height throughout the portion'of the heel which is transversely convex until the inner walls are of the same height as, and therefore in line with, the outer Walls of the grooves. If, on the other hand, the heel breast covering is substantially thicker than the side covering the outer walls of the breast grooves may be chamfered so that the lateral margins of the breast covering will project beyond the corresponding margins of the side covering to an extent which is uniform from the top to the bottom of the heel. As hereinbefore set forth the chamfering of the heel breast may be done in such a way as to insure that the breast cover margins shall not project beyond the side cover margins at any portion of the heel breast even if the breast covering is thicker than the side covering.

In Fig. 12 the portion of the breast covering 38 which overlies the chamfered face 30 at one side of the lip of the heel breast is indicated at 40. It will be seen that the portion of the breast covering 40 which turns inward- 1y from the chamfered inner edge or corner 42 of the breast groove 28 is in line with the corresponding portion of the side cover 36 which overlies the outer side wall of the groove 28. By way of contrast there is shown by dotted lines at 44 in Fig. 12 the effect produced at the lateral margins of the heel breast when the heel breast is not chamfered as herein described. Iii the particular case shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 12, the amount of forward projection of the breast covering mar gins beyond the side cover margins is 1nd1- cated at 46. This condition, if considered undesirable, may be entirely avoided by chamfering the heel breast as herein described.

In Fig. 13 there is shown a modified construction in which the margins of the breast covering for the lip of the heel breast, in-

stead of being tucked into the breast grooves 28 are trimmed in line with the grooves and laid with the trimmed edges abutting the inturned margins of the side covering, as shown at 48. In heels having transversely convex breast surfaces and having edge grooves the inner side walls of which have not been reduced in width by chamfering, the application of a breast covering in the manner just above described will result in the production of a covered heel in which the trimmed lateral edges of the breast covering for the lip of the heel breast will be uncovered by the side covering throughout part or all of the width of these trimmed edges and consequently, these edges will be at least partially exposed to view, as indicated by dotted lines at in Fig. 13, when the heel is viewed from the side. If, however, the heel breast is chamfered as herein describedthe lateral margins of the breast covering may be countersunk into the heel breast to such an extent that the trimmed edges of the covering will be entirely covered and protected by the side covering, as indicated at 52 in Fig. 13.

It may be desired to leave the sides of the heel uncovered and to apply the breast covermg without tucking in the margins thereof, in which case the chamfering of the inner side walls of the breast grooves provides proectin g outer side walls against which trnnmed but untucked portions of the lateral edges of the breast covering may abut so as to be covered and protected by said outer side walls.

If desired, the breast covering may be trimmed so as to provide sufficient surplus for tucking into the breast edge grooves below the lipped portion of the heel breast, e. g. below the point 54 in Fig. 15, and to provide edges trimmed in line with the breast grooves throughout the width of the lipped portion of the heel breast, e. g. above the point 54, for abutting the corresponding portions of the s deicovering as indicated at 56 in Fig. 15. Thus, a covered heel may be produced havmg a breast covering the lateral margins of which are tucked into the breast grooves below the lipped portion of the heel but are merely butted against the tucked-in margins of the side covering at the lipped portion of the heel. By chamfering the inner side walls of the edge grooves throughout the lipped portion of the heel it is insured that the edges of those portions of the breast cover margins which are trimmed in line with the edge grooves will not be exposed to view but will be covered and protected by the side cover margins.

As a further result -of the chamfering of the lipped portion of the heel breast, as heren dlselosed, there is insured a smooth blendmg; of the curve of the sole edge at each side of the shank portion of the sole with the curve of the corresponding lateral edge of the heel breast. This is particularly true in cases where the sole has been reduced to a feather edge beneath the channel flap for the purpose of producing a so-called close edge shank effect. In such cases there is practically no wldth to the sole edge at the shank except that of the edge of the channel flap which is laid against the beveled edge face of the body of the sole. The channel flap merges into the breast flap at the rear of the shank and as a result of the chamfering of the portions of the heel breast lip against which the lateral marg1ns of the breast flap are laid at the upper portlon of the heel each portion of the forward end of the breast lip is reduced to a feather edge, as indicated at 58 in Figs. 1, 2 and 14, thus insuring that those portions at least of the forward edge of the breast lip will cause no ridge to be formed in the breast covering flap and thus there will be no interruption in the curve of the sole edge at this polnt.

On account of the thinness of the forward portions of the breast lip, the breast grooves at these points extend through to the attaching face of the heel. as best shown at 60 in Fig. 2, and when the lateral margins of the side cover are tucked into these portions of the grooves these cover margins extendentlre- 1y through the grooves and project upwardl beyond the attaching face of the. bee Thereafter these upwardly turned cover margins, together with the upward extensions of the cover material at the sides of the heel, are turned inwardly and downwardly and laid against the margin of the attaching face. Thus the cover margins in the vicinity of the upper corners of the breast lip are folded over and left untrimmed at their ends so that they extend forwardly beyond the front edge of the breast lip in the form of narrow tongues as shown at 64 in Fig. 14. These 7 tongues 64 constitute filler members of solid but yielding material for the space between the beveled portions of the sole edge and the corresponding marginal portions of the breast covering flap for a short distance forwardly of the upper edge of the breast lip. Being yielding the material constituting the tongues'64 readily conforms, under the action of sole shaping tools, to the curve of the sole edge and enhances the appearance of the shoe at the upper corners of the heel breast. In effect it extends these corners forwardly until they terminate in' actual feather edges it their forward extremities. These tongues 64 entirely fill the space between the sole edge and the breast covering flap just in front of the heel breast lip, a condition which has heretofore been impracticable to secure, and the folded-over outer edges of the tongues have the appearance in the finished shoe of being forward extensions of the heel breast lip.

The appearance of the finished shoe is shown in Fig. 15 wherein 66 indicates the forward edge of the breast lip of the heel, and 68 the feather edge at the forward extremity of one of the tongues 64. It will be noted that there is no break or interruption in the curve of the breast covering flap f where the flap overlies the forward edge of the heel breast lip.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making heels of the type havingv marginal breast grooves extending heightwise of the heel and adapted to receive and retain in place inturned marginal portions of one or more heel cover members, which consists in relieving the breast surface throughout restricted areas immediately adjacent to the inner side walls of the grooves of a heel of said type at the upper portion only of the heel breast to permit countersinking of the margins of a heel breast cover member in said areas.

2. That improvement in methods of making heels which consists in forming in the breast of a heel a relatively deep and narrow groove adapted to receive and retain in place surface is transversely convex at the lipped portion of the heel which consists in forming in the breast of such a heel cover-receiving grooves extending one along each lateral margin of the breast face, and chamfering the inner side walls of the grooves along the lipped portion only of the heel to permit countersinking of marginal portions of a. breast covering.

4. That improvement in methods of mak ing heels the breasts of which have projecting ortions, which consists in forming in the breast of a heel a relatively deep and narrow groove havingoppositely disposed side walls substantially perpendicular to the breast surface of the heel, said groove being substantially parallel to one of the lateral breast edges of the heel, and trimmingthe projecting portion only of the breast of the heel to form a. chamfered surface adjacent to one side of the groove to receive the heel breast covering.

5. That improvement in methods of making Louis heels of the type having cover-recelving grooves which extend along the lateral margins of the heel breast and the inner side walls of which are higher than the outer side walls at the lipped portion of the heel breast, which consists in chamfering said inner side walls at the lipped portion of the heel to reduce them to substantially the height of the outer side walls.

6. That improvem nt in methods of making Louis heels, the upper breast portions of which are convex from one lateral breast edge to the other, which consists in forming in the breast of a heel a heel cover-receiving groove extending heightwise of the heel, and trimming the convex portion of the breast of the heel adjacent to the groove to form a chamfer extending along the groove, the chamfer being of minimum width at the lower part of said convex portion and of maximum width at the upper part of said convex portion.

7. That improvement in methods of making heels which consists in forming in the breast of a heel marginal grooves extending one along each lateral edge of the heel breast, chamfering the edges of the inner side walls of the grooves at the upper portion only of the heel breast, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel and tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said breast grooves, applying a covering to the breast of the heel, and countersinking the marginsof the breast covering at the chamfered portion-s of the heel breast.

8. That improvement in methods of making Louis heels of the type having cover-reeral margins of the heel breast and the inner side walls of which are higher than the outer side walls at the lipped portion of the heel breast, which consists in chamfering said inner side walls of the grooves at the lipped portion of the heel to reduce them to substantially the height of the outer side walls of the groove, appl ing a covering to the rear and sides of the eel and tucking the lateral margins of aid covering into said breast grooves, applying a covering to the breast of a heel, trimming the breast covering along.

the lines of the breast grooves, and countersinking the lateral margins of the breast covering at the chamfered portions of the heel breast.

9. That improvement in methods of covering Louis heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lip of the heel breast which extend depthwise from the breast face through to the attaching face of the heel and lengthwise to the forward edge of the lip, which consists in applying to the sides of the heel cover members having marginal portions extending forwardly beyond the lateral and upper edges of the heel breast lip and upwardly beyond the rim of the attaching face of the heel, turning said forwardly extending cover margins upwardly and tucking portions thereof through said grooves to position them adjacent to the inner sides of said upwardly extending cover margins, and turning said upwardly extending cover margins, together with said upwardly turned and tucked forward extensions of the cover margins, inwardly and downwardly to provide tongues of cover material disposed substantially in the plane of the attaching face of the heel and projecting beyond the forward edge of the heel breast lip.

, 10. That improvement in methods of making Louis heels which consists in forming in the lip of the heel breast marginal grooves extending through to the attaching face of the heel, trimming a covering for the rear and sides of the heel to provide portions adapted to extend forwardly beyond the lip of the heel breast, applying said covering to the rear and sides of the heel, tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said grooves in the lip of the heel breast, and laying the upper margins of said covering against the margin of the attaching face of the heel to form said forwardly extending portions of the covering into tongues projecting beyond the forward edge of the heel preast lip above the level of the attaching ace.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in attaching to a shoe a Louis heel having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of the lip of the heel breast which extend depthwise from the breast face to the attaching face of the heel and havin side cover margins extendlng through sai grooves and rojecting forwardly beyond the forward ed e of the heel breast lip, and laying a breast ap split from the sole of the shoe over the forwardly projecting portions of said cover margins and over the breast face of the heel. a

19. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in attaching to a shoe a heel having cover-receiving grooves extendin one along each lateral margin of .the heel ireast and relieved breast surfaces adjacent to the inner sides of said grooves at the upper portion only of the heel, laying against the heel breast a flap formed as an integral part of the sole of the shoe, and countersinking portions of said flap upon the relieved heel breast surfaces.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in forming in the breast of. a Louis heel cover-receiving grooves extendin one along each lateral margin of the heel breast, chamfering the edges of the inner side walls of the grooves along the lipped portion only of the heel breast, applying a covering to the rear and sides ofthe heel and tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said breast grooves, attaching the heel to a shoe having a breast covering flap split from the sole thereof, and laying said flap against the heel breast with portions of the flap overlying the chamfered faces of the heel breast and tucking the lateral margins of the flap into said breast grooves beside the margins of the side covering. 14; That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in forming in the breast of a Louis heel cover-receiving grooves extendin one along each lateral margin of the heel reast, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel and tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said breast grooves, attaching the heel to a shoe having a breast covering flap split from the sole thereof, laying the flap against the heel breast, trimming the lateral margins of the flap to allow for tucking in the breast grooves below the breast lip but trimming said margins in line with the breast grooves at the lipped portion of the heel breast, and laying the margins of the flap against the margins of the heel breast at the lipped portion thereof with the edges trimmed in line with the grooves abutting the inturned margins of the side covering.

15. A heel having a relatively deep and narrow groove in one lateral margin of its breast face constructed and arranged to receive and retain in place inturned marginal portions of one or more heel cover members, the heel having a chamfered surface adjacent to the inner side wall of said groove for receiving a marginal portion of a breast covering, the chamfered surface reducing the height of the inner side wall of the groove to substantially the same height as the outer- 6 heightwise of the heel an the heel bein relieved adjacent to the inner side Walls said grooves throughout the 0 upper or lip portion only of the heel breast.v

- side wall of the groove. p 16. A Louisheel having marginal grooves in its breast face, thefrooves extending 17. ALouis heel having marginal grooves extending heightwise of th heel breast and having a chamfer adjacent to the inner side wall of each groove extending throughout the upper or lip portion only of the heelbreast,-

the chamfer mcreasingjin width toward the upper edge of the lip of the heel.

18. A heel having marginal grooves in its breast face, the grooves extending heightwise of the heel and being of a character to receive and retain inplace inturned marginal portions of one or more heelcoveri'ngs, the breast of the heel having chamfered surfaces extending throughout restricted areas immediately adjacent to the inner side walls of the grooves, the chamfered surfaces reducing the height of the inner side wall of the groove to substantially the same height as the outer side wall of the groove and a covering for the breast of the heel having its lateral marof the heel breast.

19. A heel having marginal grooves in its breast face, the grooves extending heightwise of the heel and being of a character to receive and retain in place inturned marginal portions of one or more heel coverings, the breast surface of the heel being relieved throughout restricted areas immediately adjacent to the inner side walls of the grooves, a covering for the rear and sides of the heel having lateral margins overlying the lateral breast edges of the heel and tucked into said breast grooves, and a covering for the breast of the heel having lateral margins tucked into said grooves, portions of said margins being countersunk in said relieved portions of the heel breast.

20. A heel having marginal grooves in its breast face, the grooves extending heightwise of the heel and being of a character to receive and retain in place inturned marginal portions of one or more heel coverings, the breast of the heel having chamfered surfaces extending throughout restricted areas immediately adjacent to the inner side walls of the grooves, the chamfered surfaces reducing the height of the inner side walls of the grooves to substantially the same height as the outer side walls of the grooves and a breast covering having lateral edges abutting and entirely covered by the lateral breast edge portions of the heel.

21. A heel having marginal breast grooves extending heightwise of the heel breast, the inner side walls of the grooves being chamfered at the upper portion only of the heel the breast face of gins countersunk in said chamfered portions breast, a covering for the sides of the heel the lateral margins of which are tucked into breast face of the heel being chamfered adjacent to the inner sidewalls of said grooves throughout the upper or lip portion only of theheel breast, a covering for the sides of the heel having marginal portions overlying the lateral edges of the heel breast and tucked into said grooves, and a breast covering having lateral marginal portions tucked into said grooves below the lip of the heel breast and other lateral marginal portions overlying said chamfered portions of the heel breast and having their edges abutting the corresponding portions of the inturned margins of the side covering.

23. A Louis heel having in each lateral margin of the lip of the heel breast a groove extendingthrough to the attaching face of the heel, and side cover members having tongues extending forwardly beyond the opposite ends of the upper edge of the breast lip, each of said tongues being of two-ply construction comprising a lower ply formed as a forward extension of a lateral margin of one of said cover members projected through and sides of the heel having lateral margins tucked into said breast grooves, and a flap formed integral with the sole of the shoe and covering the portion of the heel breast between said grooves, said flap having marginal portions countersunk upon said relieved breast surfaces.

25. A shoe comprising a sole, a heel having marginal grooves in its breast face extending one along each lateral margin of the heel breast and having chamfered surfaces adjacent to the inner side walls of said grooves, a

covering for the rear and sides of the heel having inturned marginal portions tucked into said breast grooves, and a flap formed integral with the sole ofthe shoe having portions of its lateral margins tucked into said grooves and other portions of its lateral mar gins laid against said chamfered portions of the heel breast and arranged with the ed es of said marginal portions abutting the 1nturned margins of the side covering.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

NORWOOD H. KNOWLTON. 

